Trekking with the H’mong in Sapa, Vietnam

  “Chukka!”. We clinked our glasses of rice wine and swallowed the potent liquid, for the fourth time in the last 10 minutes. Or was it the fifth? I was losing count already. It was nearing 10pm and our guide Mao’s children were sleeping silently in their part of the almost open-plan house. They could surely hear every word of …